It was in its earliest form. By the mid-19th century, though, coffee houses had become less fashionable in England as a cultural/political institution (replaced in large part by the club), and there was a push to create working men's coffee houses as part of the temperance movement. So I think if you're specifically talking about the 19th century, it's your best bet as a term for "a cheap restaurant that doesn't serve alcohol."
no subject